I was awakened by the announcement made on the PA system. It was time to disembark for the next phase of our journey in Odawara. We booked a Ryokan-style Airbnb for the next 3 days. A ryokan is a type of traditional Japanese inn that typically features tatami-matted rooms and other public areas. We were looking forward to this unique experience.
The Airbnb was located just a few minutes from the station. We were surprised to find that the restaurants in the station were fully occupied. We decided to check in & do laundry in the Airbnb before heading out for lunch. Tipy Records Inn is a guesthouse owned by a small family. We were greeted by one of the staff just outside the inn. She gave us detailed instructions on how to enter using the traditional combination lock. We were led through a narrow staircase up to our room, where every step creaked beneath my feet.. I felt like a giant as I bent over to avoid hitting my head on the doorway. (I lost count of the times I knocked my head during my stay).
We headed out for lunch shortly afterwards. Just outside the inn, we came across a few cats just chilling on the driveway on a cosy autumn afternoon. It was almost 3pm so we just went to a nearby restaurant to fuel up. With a few hours till sunset, we decided to just explore what the town has to offer. After a scrumptuous meal, we walked about half a mile to Odawara castle, a historic fortress originally built in the 15th century. Today, it houses museum showcasing samurai artifacts. The area surrounding the castle was spacious, featuring beautifully maintained gardens, wide walking paths, and scenic views that added to its tranquil charm.
Just before sunset, we stumbled upon a performance outside a building where a monkey entertained the crowd with circus acts, including walking on stilts. We later discovered a free footbath at the viewing deck on top of the building but we found it too crowded. Instead, we soaked in the scenic views of the town with the neighboring mountains in sight.
We returned to the inn to unload our laundry and transfer it to the dryer. A small sign indicated the cost: “100 yen.” Payment could be made via the “PayPay” app or by simply dropping a coin into a container. It struck us how easy it would be to skip paying, yet this simple system relied entirely on mutual trust. It was another reminder of the deep sense of integrity that is rooted in the Japanese culture.
Later that evening, we visited the Tipy Inn Record cafe which was newly opened. We had a free drink voucher which was part of our stay. We met the owners & a small family having dinner. We were given a menu which was handwritten in Japanese. Google Translate did a good job translating the menu into English. We felt welcomed and enjoyed a delightful Omakase-style meal, with each dish freshly prepared right in front of us. The experience felt surreal. It was like watching a screen, yet we were actually there, conversing with the locals and learning about their culture.
Day 4 completed with 10,670 steps
<DAY FIVE>
Waking up on a Sunday morning in a Ryokan was something I never imagined doing in 2024. It was the day I was looking forward to the whole trip. A trip to the Onsen awaits, it was something I missed out on doing in Taiwan a year ago due to some unforeseen circumstances.
The first stop of the day is Suzuhiro Kamaboko-no-Sato, conveniently located near Kazamatsuri Station, just two stops from Odawara. ‘Kamaboko’ (かまぼこ) is a traditional Japanese fish cake made from pureed white fish (surimi), which is seasoned, shaped, and steamed or baked.The souvenir store also sells artisan crafts & traditional snacks made in the region.
The store was bustling with locals, and it seemed we were the only tourists in the area. (Tip: When traveling, take time to explore places frequented by locals—it’s a unique experience that often leads to hidden gems and exquisite local delicacies to bring home.)
After spending over an hour in the store, our bags were filled with souvenirs & snacks, not forgetting traditional mochi with brown sugar.
It’s time to hop on a train to the hot spring! Hakone Kowakien Yunessun is a hot spring theme park with a wide variety of baths, including wine and coffee baths. However, we decided to keep it simple and opted for the traditional onsen experience. After being kindly escorted by a staff member through the huge building, we collected the keys to our private onsen.
Taking a dip into water at 40°C (104°F) isn’t something most of us are accustomed to, but here are some incredible benefits of bathing in hot spring water:
Improved Circulation
- The warm water and minerals stimulate blood flow, helping to deliver oxygen and nutrients more efficiently throughout the body.
Muscle Relaxation and Pain Relief
- Soaking in hot water helps relax tense muscles and reduce joint stiffness, making it ideal for those with muscle soreness or arthritis.
Skin Health
- Minerals like sulfur, silica, and magnesium promote smoother, healthier skin by exfoliating dead cells and improving hydration.
- Certain onsens with sulfur are known for their acne-fighting and anti-inflammatory properties.
Detoxification
- The heat from the onsen causes you to sweat, aiding in the elimination of toxins from the body.
Boosted Metabolism
- The increased body temperature and improved circulation can enhance metabolism and aid digestion.
After a SPA-tacular time soaking in the onsen, we felt hungry. A bowl of Ramen felt like an excellent way to replenish ourselves.
It felt comforting from the inside out, as if the combination of the onsen’s therapeutic soak and the ramen’s rich flavors has created a moment of total relaxation. It’s a pause, a moment of harmony where the world outside feels far away, and you’re simply immersed in warmth, nourishment, and tranquility. It’s a perfect end to an onsen experience—both body and spirit replenished.
(with a croquette for extra crunch)
Just beside the restaurant lies another souvenir shop, selling mostly pastries and snacks wrapped in boxes. One of them caught my eye—“Ebi Senbei”. This delightful snack is a cracker with a real dried shrimp in each pack. We found ourselves indulging in another shopping spree, feeling bad for my wallet for having to tolerate the constant temptation of so many irresistible souvenirs. The responsibility is now firmly in the hands of my future self, who will have to perform some acrobatics to squeeze all these items into my luggage. I’m already imagining the dramatic battle of wills between me and my suitcase—spoiler alert: the suitcase always wins, but it’s going to be a tight match!
The journey back was filled with tourists, which was expected since it was a Sunday. The onsen definitely made the rest of the day relaxing. It’s been a while since I’ve felt so calm and at ease.
After a short rest back at the inn, I stumbled upon a pamphlet while taking a quick break. It was a map of all the attractions and restaurants around the area. I couldn’t help but notice that there was an Indian restaurant just 5 minutes away from the Airbnb. After convincing the rest of the group to join me, we were ready to set out on an unexpected culinary journey at a small town in the middle of Japan.
It was located in the basement of a building, seemingly vacant. At first, we were the only group there, but shortly after, a Japanese family walked in. The restaurant was run by a friendly Nepalese family who made us feel truly welcomed. We later learned that they had lived in Odawara for seven years. It was truly admirable to learn how they had built a business from the ground up and adapted to the local culture and language so effortlessly.
It started drizzling shortly after, and, of course, none of us had an umbrella. We quickly ran to the nearest Lawson, trying to stay as dry as possible while grabbing some food for breakfast the next day. Moments like this are the ones that stick with you, the little unexpected adventures that make the trip memorable. Even though we were caught in the rain, there was something special about the spontaneity of that moment.
Day 5 completed with 5840 steps
<DAY SIX>
After breakfast, I bumped into an elderly couple staying in the room adjacent to us. It was painful to watch the old lady go down the stairs. Each step left her gasping for breath, her effort painfully evident. The narrow staircase left no room to offer help, so I could only watch and silently pray that she made it down safely. It was a powerful reminder to be grateful for my health and to honor my body as a temple.
During our stay in Odawara, our SUICA card was untouched. This was due to the HAKONE FREEPASS which offers an extensive coverage of transportation & attractions within the Hakone area. The comprehensive transport network in Japan makes travelling a breeze. +1 reason to visit if you’re still considering!
Anyway, let’s get back on track with another train ride(pun intended) to Gora station. The first stop for the day is the Hakone Gora Park. It is a beautiful French-style landscape park located in the Gora area of Hakone. It is Japan’s first Western-style garden, opened in 1914, featuring meticulously designed flower beds, fountains, and walking paths surrounded by seasonal plants and trees.
After a short walk back to Gora Station, we boarded the Hakone Cable Car up the mountain to Sounzan Station. It is a funicular railway with a steep incline of up to 25 degrees. For my readers from Singapore, this ride is akin to a steep tram ride on tracks, quite different from the cable car that goes to Sentosa. The “cable car” that you’re used to is called the Hakone Ropeway” here, & we will get to that soon.
As we approached the final station, I wondered if people hike up these mountains occasionally. I would love to find out if when I get the chance someday. Sounzan Station is the interchange between the Hakone Cable Car and the Hakone Ropeway, serving as a seamless connection point for travelers continuing their journey up the mountain. The Hakone Freepass is a game-changer! With the pass, we avoided the hassle of purchasing individual tickets, giving us ample of time to soak in the environment.
We witnessed smoke on the mountain when riding the Hakone Ropeway. I later found out that this was due to the volcanic activity in the Owakudani Valley, a famous geothermal area in the Hakone region. Owakudani, which translates to “Great Boiling Valley,” is an active volcanic zone formed around 3,000 years ago after a major eruption of Mount Hakone.
The smoke is actually steam and volcanic gases, like sulfur dioxide, coming from the ground through vents. This creates the valley’s strong sulfur smell and dramatic landscape.
Omurice is a popular Japanese dish that combines an omelette with fried rice. As a lover of scrambled eggs, I couldn’t help but choose this dish from the menu at the Togendai View restaurant. It was the perfect time for us to grab lunch, after spending the first half of the day exploring the mountainous region of Hakone.
Overlooking the restaurant, there is a stunning panoramic view of Lake Ashi, surrounded by the majestic Hakone mountains. A cruise ship is berthed at the dock which was filled with tourists.
We boarded the cruise ship, which looked like a majestic pirate ship, with its grand design and striking colors, with a towering mast which stood out while cruising on Lake Ashi. The lake is approximately 13 kilometres(8 miles) long. 30 minutes later, we arrived to Motohakone. The main attraction here is the Hakone-jinja Shrine. It boasts over 1,260 years of rich history. For centuries, travelers on the Hakone-ji and Tokaido routes have prayed here for safe journeys. The shrine is said to bring luck in competitions and prosperity in business.
The long flight of stairs was worth the climb after a heavy meal. Every step feels intentional, with the welcoming atmosphere encouraging stillness of mind and a deep connection to something timeless.
For those of you interested in stamp collection, I recently came across a video online about this practice. “Goshuin” (御朱印), is a popular tradition among visitors to shrines and temples across Japan. These stamps, often accompanied by beautifully handwritten calligraphy, are collected as a personal record of one’s spiritual journey.
Upon exiting the shrine, we came across a large gate overlooking the lake. There was a long, snaking queue, and I quickly realized that people were waiting to take a photo with the stunning backdrop. The name of the gate is Heiwa no Tori (Gate of Peace)
We had the option of taking a bus back to Hakone Station or using the same route we took to get here. The bus was an optimal choice as it will take us directly to our destination.
To summarise, here is the route which is highly reccomended if you are visiting Hakone.
Hakone Station——> Gora Station ——> Sounzan Station ——> Togendai Station ——> Motohakone ——> Hakone Station
The route information on this website below:
After the dizzying bus ride(I didn’t throw up), we found ourselves back at Hakone Yumoto Station. the station is filled with souvenir shops & eateries. A smoky fragrance of caramelized soy sauce filled the air as we walked down the streets.
We were greeted by a Japanese lady in a stall selling rice dumplings on a stick. Dango (団子) is a Japanese dumpling made with regular rice flour and glutinous rice flour, usually with the sweet soy-based mitarashi sauce.
“These dango are so oishii, they’ll make you stick around for more!”
ChatGPT
We spent another hour on the street near the station, shopping for souvenirs yet again. This round, I bought more keepsakes such as bookmarks & fridge magnets.
The last item we bought before heading back to our Airbnb was the Hakone Black Egg (黒たまご, kuro tamago). These eggs are hard-boiled in the hot springs of Owakudani Valley, where sulfur-rich volcanic waters turn the shells black.
It was an exhausting yet rewarding day. We stopped by a supermarket in Odawara station to have a look. I was impressed by the wide array of affordable ready made-meals. Shortly afterwards, we headed back to the Airbnb.
To our pleasant surprise, we were greeted by a French woman seated in the room next to the pantry. She appeared to be in her 50s and was accompanied by a friend. After a bit of mental gymnastics, I managed to string together a few sentences in French (having learned basic conversational French in college and through Duolingo). She graciously indulged me, and I expressed my gratitude with a heartfelt “Merci.”
They were on a plant-based diet and shared that they planned to cook a meal using the fresh vegetables they had bought earlier.
As we sat together, we quickly clicked, exchanging stories and sharing our experiences as tourists in Japan. The conversation flowed easily, with laughter and curiosity filling the air, all while enjoying a drink together in a moment of unexpected camaraderie. It felt like we had known each other much longer, and the warmth of the moment made the evening unforgettable. What began as a chance encounter turned into a delightful and meaningful connection, reminding us how travel can bring people together in the most surprising ways.
It was time to get back to reality & enter the battleground. The battle of souvenirs fitting into my suitcase was like a high-stakes game of Tetris, where every item had its own stubborn will to defy organization. After several rounds of shifting, folding, and compacting, I finally closed the suitcase with a victorious click, knowing that these little treasures is a reminder of my unforgettable adventure.
Day 6 completed with 13,200 steps
<DAY SEVEN>
Packing the night before definitely helped us to avoid the usual stress and last-minute chaos. With everything neatly organized, we could enjoy a more relaxed morning. This humble inn will definitely etch a deep memory within me, and I am truly grateful for the experience despite the bumps on my head along the way.
We had planned to bid farewell to the delightful ladies by knocking on their door, but when no one answered, we were pleasantly surprised to hear their voices outside. They were relaxing on the charming little patio just beside the inn. The peaceful atmosphere made me feel at ease, and we exchanged a few warm pleasantries before continuing on our journey, leaving with a sense of contentment from our brief, yet memorable encounter.
After picking up some fresh bread from a local bakery, we made our way to Odawara Station. It was finally time for me to board the Shinkansen, something I had dreamed of ever since I was young. I was captivated, watching the trains zoom past the station at incredible speeds, and the excitement within me grew with each passing moment. It felt like a dream coming true, and I couldn’t wait to experience the iconic bullet train up close.
~End of Chapter Two
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